Permanent Makeup Pigments – A Complete Guide for PMU Artists

What are permanent makeup pigments?

Permanent makeup pigments are specialist colouring products intended
for implantation into the skin during treatments involving the brows,
lips, eyelids and selected reconstructive or paramedical pigmentation
procedures.

A professional PMU pigment should have a clearly defined intended use,
full product labelling, a complete ingredient list, batch number,
expiry date and documentation appropriate for the market in which it is
sold and used.

The colour visible inside the bottle is not identical to the final healed
result. The outcome can be influenced by:

• the natural skin colour and undertone,
• the natural colour of the lips,
• the skin type and condition,
• the implantation depth,
• the PMU artist’s technique,
• the number of passes and saturation level,
• the machine and PMU cartridge used,
• the healing process,
• aftercare,
• the client’s individual skin response.

Types of permanent makeup pigments

PMU pigments can differ in composition, intensity, coverage,
consistency and behaviour inside the skin. The main categories include
inorganic, organic and hybrid pigments.

Mineral and inorganic pigments

Pigments described as mineral or inorganic are frequently used for
permanent brow treatments. They may help create softer, more subtle and
natural-looking healed results.

This does not mean that every mineral pigment behaves in the same way.
Individual formulas can differ in pigment concentration, undertone,
density, coverage and the speed at which the colour builds inside the
skin.

Before using a new pigment range on clients, the PMU artist should become
familiar with its working properties, observe fresh results and analyse
healed work.

Organic pigments

The term “organic” refers to the chemical group of the colourant. It does
not automatically mean that the product is natural, ecological,
botanical or free from synthetic ingredients.

Organic colourants may provide high intensity, clarity and strong colour
saturation. For this reason, they are frequently used in permanent lip
treatments.

A highly concentrated pigment requires a controlled technique. The
number of passes, needle movement, pressure and the amount of pigment
implanted into the skin all influence the result.

Hybrid pigments

Hybrid pigments combine different groups of colourants. Their working
properties depend on the formula, proportions and intended use of the
product.

They may provide stronger saturation than traditional mineral pigments
while still allowing the artist to control the healed effect. However,
this does not mean that a hybrid pigment is automatically suitable for
every skin type, technique or PMU artist.

Discover

LIERA hybrid permanent makeup pigments
.

How to choose permanent makeup pigments

Pigment selection should begin with a consultation, a conversation with
the client and a careful analysis of the treatment area.

A PMU artist should not choose the colour based only on personal taste.
The client’s expectations, everyday makeup, clothing style, preferred
cosmetic colours and the intensity in which she feels comfortable are
also important.

Before choosing a pigment, assess:

• the client’s skin phototype,
• the skin undertone,
• the natural brow or lip colour,
• the natural and dyed hair colour,
• the skin type and condition,
• any previous permanent makeup,
• remaining unwanted pigment tones,
• the desired colour intensity,
• the client’s style and preferences,
• the selected treatment technique,
• the artist’s level of experience.

Two clients with a similar hair colour may require completely different
pigments. One may want a soft and transparent result, while another may
prefer stronger brows or a more visible healed lip colour.

Pigment selection should therefore combine colour theory with the
client’s individual aesthetic preferences.

Permanent makeup pigments for brows

A brow pigment should complement the client’s overall colouring, hair
colour, natural brow hair, skin undertone and desired result.

Choosing a pigment that matches the current hair colour exactly is not
always the best solution. Hair may be dyed or lightened and can differ
significantly from the client’s natural facial features.

When selecting a brow pigment, consider:

• whether the skin undertone is cool, warm or neutral,
• the natural colour of the hair and brows,
• the current hair colour,
• the strength of the client’s natural features,
• the client’s preferences,
• powder, hairstroke or combination techniques,
• any remaining previous pigmentation,
• the expected healed intensity.

A pigment that is too cool can create a heavy or muted effect. A colour
that is too warm may not suit the client’s colouring or may change the
overall balance of the face.

In some cases, the most appropriate solution is to combine several
pigments, adjust the temperature of a mixture or use a suitable
corrector.

Explore the full collection of

LIERA permanent makeup brow pigments
.

Permanent makeup pigments for lips

Selecting a lip pigment requires a careful analysis of the client’s
natural lip colour. The original colour of the lips directly influences
the healed result.

The same pigment can look different on light, cool-toned lips and on
lips with a brown, bluish, purple or grey undertone.

When selecting a lip pigment, consider:

• the natural lip colour,
• its existing saturation,
• the presence of cool, bluish or brown tones,
• the client’s most frequently used lipstick colours,
• the client’s everyday style,
• the preferred level of intensity,
• a natural, lipstick or corrective result,
• whether preliminary lip neutralisation is required.

With more challenging natural lip tones, the artist should not always
begin with the final target colour. The first stage may need to focus on
neutralising the unwanted undertone before building the desired shade.

The client should also understand that freshly pigmented lips can appear
stronger, warmer and more saturated. The final colour should be assessed
only after the healing process has been completed.

Explore

LIERA permanent makeup lip pigments

available in nude, pink, red and brown shades.

Pigments for permanent eyeliner

Pigments used for permanent eyeliner should be selected according to
their intended use and the manufacturer’s documentation.

Before the treatment, determine whether the client wants a subtle lash
enhancement, a classic eyeliner or a more visible decorative effect.

The eye colour, natural facial features, personal style, everyday makeup
and eyelid structure should also be considered.

Only products intended for the eye area should be used on the eyelids.
A dark pigment should not be selected automatically simply because its
colour appears suitable.

View the available

LIERA permanent eyeliner pigments
.

PMU pigment correctors and colour neutralisation

Correctors can be used to adjust the temperature of a mixture, warm or
cool a colour and neutralise selected unwanted tones.

They should not be added automatically to every treatment. Their use
should be based on an analysis of the skin colour, remaining previous
pigmentation and the objective of the procedure.

A corrector may be added to a pigment mixture or used during a separate
neutralisation stage. The decision depends on the individual case, the
pigment system and the artist’s experience.

Explore the available

LIERA permanent makeup correctors
.

Safe permanent makeup pigments – REACH compliance and documentation

Price, popularity and an attractive shade should not be the only factors
considered when selecting a pigment. A professional PMU artist should
also verify the product’s origin, labelling and documentation.

Before purchasing a pigment, check:

• the manufacturer’s name,
• the responsible entity placing the product on the market,
• the complete ingredient list,
• the batch number,
• the expiry date,
• the recommended period of use after opening,
• the storage conditions,
• the product’s intended use,
• compliance with current REACH requirements,
• the availability of safety data and product documentation.

Pigments sold and used within the European Union should comply with the
current restrictions concerning substances used in tattoo inks and
permanent makeup.

More information is available from the European Chemicals Agency:


REACH restrictions for tattoo inks and permanent makeup

.

The date of first opening should be written directly on the bottle. A
pigment should not be used after its expiry date or if its smell,
consistency or appearance has changed. It should also not be used if the
storage conditions are uncertain.

Product documentation may be required during a salon inspection, PMU
training, trade fair or championship. Judges may ask a participant to
present information about the pigment being used.

Common mistakes when choosing PMU pigments

1. Choosing a colour based only on an online image

A product image on a screen cannot accurately show its undertone,
intensity, concentration or behaviour inside the skin. Colours may also
appear differently on various monitors and smartphones.

2. Evaluating a pigment only by the colour inside the bottle

The colour inside the bottle is not identical to the healed result. A
pigment should also be evaluated on swatches, practice skins and, most
importantly, well-documented healed treatments.

3. Copying pigment mixtures without analysing the client

A mixture that worked well for one client may produce a different result
on another. Every skin tone, natural lip colour and colour base is
different.

4. Ignoring the healed result

Photographs taken immediately after the treatment do not show the final
effect. Healed photographs are much more useful when evaluating the
long-term behaviour of a pigment.

5. Failing to discuss the colour with the client

Even a technically appropriate colour may not meet the client’s
expectations. The consultation should include her preferences, style,
everyday makeup and desired intensity.

6. Making the decision based only on price

A low price should not compensate for missing documentation, unclear
product origin or a lack of support from the manufacturer or
distributor.

7. Buying too many colours at the beginning

A very large palette can make learning more difficult. It is often better
to become familiar with a smaller number of pigments, document mixtures
and observe healed results.

LIERA permanent makeup pigments

LIERA offers professional pigments developed for different areas of
permanent makeup and specialist pigmentation.

The collection includes:

• 
  permanent makeup brow pigments,
  
• 
  hybrid brow pigments,
  
• 
  permanent makeup lip pigments,
  
• 
  eyeliner and eye-area pigments,
  
• 
  correctors for colour adjustment and neutralisation,
  
• 
  pigments for areola and reconstructive pigmentation.
  

LIERA collections allow PMU artists to create subtle, natural results as
well as more visible effects. Individual pigments differ in undertone,
intensity, consistency and intended use.

Professional standards taught by Liera Academy place particular
importance on client analysis, informed colour selection, controlled
technique and the evaluation of healed results.

A pigment should be treated as a professional tool selected for a
specific purpose, rather than as a random colour chosen immediately
before the treatment.

Frequently asked questions about permanent makeup pigments